RSS

Tag Archives: sewing with knit fabric

what was going to be and what was

It ended up looking a bit like this but not really, mostly because I was wearing it 🙂

This is what it was going to be. I love the pattern and the range of style options. It’s elegant enough for a wedding but not intimidatingly difficult. However, tracing and cutting required more space than I presently have or can create. This is what it ended up being. I’ve made it at least twice before, all the pattern pieces were already cut out and it is indeed an easy sew. It is, however, a 1980’s pattern, which means quite loose-fitting. Perfect. I wanted something more fitted. I measured carefully and reread the instructions, as well as measuring an RTW dress I use for work to ensure that the finished measurements wouldn’t be indecently tight. It worked out well. Both Dr B and YoungB were surprised by how nice the finished article was. (Don’t you just love their confidence in my ability?!)

My wonderful, expensive fabric behaved beautifully and sewed up a treat. Except, sadly, when I was sewing on the right side of the fabric (eg, to make the neckband or hem, or doing any topstitching). Then, no matter what I adjusted, there were skipped stitches. I tweaked all sorts of things, to no avail. Finally with time running away from me, the light fading, my neck aching (from bending over all that unpicking) and my patience fraying ever so slightly, I decided that I’d simply use a smaller stitch length, sew slowly and steadily and accept whatever I got at the end of that process. It didn’t do away with the skipped stitches, but it did minimise their number. And I accepted that result. (You’d have to look closely to notice the skipped stitches.)

I made version 1, including the long sleeves because, you know, cool afternoons  and evenings up in the HIlls, winter on its way and all of that. And, as I said, my end result was, as intended, a great deal more fitted than the envelope photo would suggest.

I changed the neckline entirely. I have interfacing somewhere, but since tidying my sewing room I’m no longer certain of its whereabouts. Therefore, I decided to do something whose construction was akin to that of a t-shirt collar, but I made it with a slight twist. I let the dress hang for a couple of nights before I finally hemmed it. Dr B measured it for me, and estimated I’d need to remove 5 inches. That sounded like rather a lot! I shortened it by 4 inches and turned up a half-inch hem. That gave me a flattering, just-below-knee hemline. Funnily enough, I don’t recall shortening it last time, and I haven’t marked the pattern to indicate that I did. But I haven’t got any taller in the intervening 33-odd years.

Rather than leave it languishing in the wardrobe simply because the neckline could use adjusting, I’ve worn it on Board meeting days.

Also, partly because I have T. Rex arms, I had to chop off some of the sleeve length. I hadn’t made the long sleeved version before, but I ought to have remembered the 1980’s penchant for Very Long Sleeves and taken heed from the pushed-up sleeves in the photo. No harm done and the dress finished in ample time (honestly, I reckon I was done with the last of the threads by mid-morning on the day of the late-afternoon wedding). We ended up being a party in blue because Dr B and YoungB both elected to wear blue shirts. It wasn’t done intentionally to match my dress, merely serendipity.

Serendipity had us all in blue, just like half the wedding party.

Advertisements
 
Leave a comment

Posted by on May 14, 2017 in Sewing

 

Tags: , , , , , , , ,

process not product

Great potential for placement problems but too spectacular to resist

Great potential for placement problems but too spectacular to resist

I’m dead terrified of upsetting the Mistress of the Jar. So I’m not going to talk about whether or not my finished top would be appropriate for my response to the challenge she set us. It might be. It might not be. I’m more blogging about getting there, not what “there” might be. So I firstly want to have a little whinge about PDF patterns! Yes, in the big scheme of things they’re fantastic. It’s fabulous that you can download them instantly and it’s truly wonderful that so many designers do make them available at little or even no cost. Those are big gains indeed.

All of those gains, however, can disappear in a fit of the grumbles when you spend two days crawling around on the floor trying to match up all the squares to glue one of them together so you can actually use it. After that, there’s the usual having to trace your pattern off that so that you can then pin it – or weight it; whichever method you use, there’s an added step –  to your fabric and then cut out the garment. That might normally take [me] a day; but if you’ve just spent two getting to that point, all of that additional, ordinary stuff seems like a very great deal when you’re working on a deadline. And, let’s be honest, who ever works to anything but a deadline? Some might be tighter than others but we’re always trying to do more than we can realistically fit into the hours we’ve allocated for the task. We might plan to be ahead of ourselves but life gets in the way. That’s just how life is!

For me, there are other deterrents. We don’t have a decent floor in the place (the carpet is old and bumpy and if we continue to store pushbikes in the hallway and use the lounge room as a substitute gym in the winter, I can’t see that changing), the lino in the kitchen is a bit the same and there’s certainly not enough space in the kitchen for it to be a possibility even were it not, you know, the kitchen) and certainly no table large enough for gluing together large expanses of paper. That’s definitely a factor in my lack of enthusiasm for PDF patterns.

I like to think you’re all a great deal better organised than I am, even though I know it’s not the case, and that you’d never be battling PDFs and cutting out and sewing up your new garment a few hours before the party at which you need to wear it (because, heck, if you don’t wear that, then what on earth will you wear?). I’ve seen evidence around the blogosphere that there are others who are also of the school that thinks hems on knits are optional at a pinch; and therefore, knowing I’m in good company, I’m about to reel off a few of my heinous actions.

So what if I ended up using a shoelace as a tie because I didn’t have time to make a cord? Under a jacket, the shoelace wasn’t visible. So what if the garment wasn’t hemmed? I think most would agree that’s sometimes a deliberate choice for a very stable knit fabric. I might hem it eventually, along with sorting out a better way of achieving the desired gathers because I found the effect of the shoelace quite bulky and don’t imagine that a self-fabric cord would be any less so. The not-so-good fit across the back? It’s sleeveless but I’d always intended to wear it under a jacket. Given time, I might put a Chanel trim on the armscyes to tidy things up and bring in the profile to a better fit. Then again, I might not. The drape on the cowl? Far too deep to be a good look, but I take the responsibility for that because it relates to my absolute indolence with regard to measuring myself properly.

I know I’m a funny shape – I’ve had a lot of years to accept that! – and that my proportions make adjustments tricky. Still, I could have been more careful with starting out at about a size 12 across the shoulders on both back and front and then deciding how on earth I was going to ensure that the rest of the garment was big enough for the rest of me. You know how I was in a hurry? Yeah, well, that’s it, you know. I was in a hurry, so I did the best I could in what little time I had. I certainly graded from a smaller size at the shoulder to a bigger size at the bottom; it just might not been the right size in either spot. Oops.

Despite all the dramas and problems, the finished garment looked okay under the jacket. The colour is pretty and was appropriate for the evening (chosen carefully to reflect one of the favourite colours of the birthday girl) and if my top was a mess under the jacket, then only I knew. Another guest, someone who wouldn’t care about any of those shortcomings even if she’d known about them, said how nice it looked and particularly loved the cowl. 🙂

 
2 Comments

Posted by on December 15, 2013 in Sewing

 

Tags: , , , , , ,

jarring thoughts

Turns out it's not about the wearability for work but using this fabric

Turns out it’s not about the wearability or suitability for work but about finally using this lovely fabric (and I do need a decent, pretty blouse for work)

I’ve been thinking about my reSewlution “to make a new blouse for me that’s suitable to wear to work”. That doesn’t sound terribly difficult. In fact, I made four tops last year that might not have been intended for work but have been worn to work. So perhaps what I really meant was that I want to use that lovely piece of blue rayon with the flowers on it to make a top for work and do a really good job of it, because the others were all problematic in one way or another and none of them – none! – is as well finished as it should be.

I haven’t let that stop me from using them but I’m always aware that the hem on one isn’t entirely straight, the neckband on another is dodgy as all get out, the sleeves on a third are a very long way from perfect, and the other one just doesn’t fit as well as it should because I used a fabric with too little stretch. But I have no shame: I wear them anyway. From the outside, they don’t look too bad (and, let’s face it, not too many people are going to be inspecting the inside). One of them has a brilliant neckline, another looks (and is) light and summery, one is, as it turns out, understated and highly suitable for work and the one I made to wear to a wedding, while done in the biggest hurry of all, still looks quite presentable despite the several shortcomings – they’re more like longcomings, really! – in fit and finish. (Yes, I have worn it to work, separate from its accompanying skirt, on a couple of occasions where I was attending a function after work.)

I mean, just how dodgy is that neckline? Don't you wonder how I can bear to wear it in public!

I mean, just how dodgy is that neckline? Don’t you wonder how I can bear to wear it in public!

Having thus berated myself for being sloppy, I should point out that three of those tops are made from knit fabric, part of whose charm (if you didn’t know) is that, actually, you don’t NEED to finish off seams the way you would with a woven fabric. They won’t fray or unravel if you just leave them raw and sometimes you do leave them raw for effect. All the same, I’m sure a spot more overlocking wouldn’t have gone astray on any of them. That’s particularly true for the one that’s not a knit so much as a stretch satin and, really, it does fray.

My intention for that piece of blue-with-flowers fabric – recently, anyway; it’s been in my stash for a very long time – had been to use it to make another of the easy kimono-style T-shirts but there’s another top in my wardrobe which I actually prefer for a variety of reasons. It has reached a point of being beyond respectability (it’s nearly as old as YoungB and I wear it a lot). I might use it to trace a pattern then try really, really hard not to mess up when I make that top for work, the pretty one that I’ve been promising myself for years!

 
Leave a comment

Posted by on January 31, 2013 in Sewing

 

Tags: , , , ,